http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2803

I have had the GIO 500w scooter for a few months, everything worked great. Had it parked in the laneway and the wind knocked it over. Ever since then there is no power at all, to anything on the bike, the circuit breaker under the seat will not stay 'on' once the batteries are hooked up. Any suggestions as to what may be wrong?

from my experience, it could be that either

1. the polarity is reversed to the breaker somehow

2. the breaker has failed.

try this test.

remove the wires from the breaker and connect them temporarily to see if it will work.

you can get a new breaker if that is the case.

if you cannot find a breaker locally i have stock.

Just tried to by-pass the circuit breaker, by connecting the 2 brown wires. and it resulted in a puff of smoke from the battery and it melted the connector from the bike to the battery. Now I need a new plug end from the battery to the bike.

Mandroid

Posts: 4

Joined: Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:07 pm

The breakers are nothing special, any electrical supply store will have them.

If a breaker pops it means that there is/was a tremendous overload or even worse a short down the line. I do not know the rating of your breaker, but I assume something 20 amp or maybe even 30 amp. To trigger that it had to have some major short or overload!

You say it fell over? Just falling over should not cause a problem other than some scratches on the plastic, bent mirror etc. But if somehow the heavy wiring to the motor was cut, insulation stripped and positive and negative are connecting, that would cause the breaker to pop! Maybe the positive wire coming out of the breaker has disconnected under the seat bucket and is shorting out against the frame.

Those are the things I would be looking for.

It is irresponsible to suggest to just connect the wiring bypassing the breaker! DC will cause bad burns. The OP could have received severe burns on his fingers or hands, the wiring could have burned etc.!!!

An easy fix for the plug is to go to a computer repair facility and see if they can sell you a female plug, these male and female connectors are STANDARD computer items.

The bike worked fine until the wind blew it over. Now the breaker doesn't stay on. There is a short after the breaker. Don't bypass the breaker until you solve the short, or you will have many more puffs of smoke in your life. Follow the three bigger wires and see if something is touching the frame or touching other wires. A voltmeter would come in really handy here.

Ok, taken the bikes plastic body off the bike so the metal frame is exposed, from front to rear. I cannot find any exposed, or damaged wires. There is no visible damage to the bike what so ever. Could the problem be inside the rear wheel?

Probably not. But you are going to have to start learning your bike's wiring to solve the problem. After the breaker, the largest of the wires goes to the controller. From there, three wires go to a wiring block and then to the motor. Not too complicated. You could remove the three fat wires from the connector block. Leave one side of the wires connected and reconnect them afterward to the same colour. This will take the motor out of the circuit. Now flip the breaker and see if it stays on. If the beaker shuts off again, and you've checked all the wires for shorts, you might have a shorted controller. At any rate, this will tell if it is the motor. If the breaker stays on, you have a short in or near the motor.

Right where the wires go into the motor at the axle, they could have gotten pinched between the axle and the ground. It is a very delicate place to be working. But if the outer plastic seems pinched or broken, you need to remove the outer protective covering and see what lurks below. Turn off the breaker if it hasn't popped off already.

Figured out what was causing the problems. Anyone know where to get a new/used controller box. (The aluminum case under the seat)

Re: No Power is Huge Problem!

Postby ELECTRIC AVE EBIKES » Sat May 25, 2013 2:03 pm

Hi scootergirl

You recently had the batteries replaced so start in the battery box!!!

You should check in the battery box for loose connections, make sure to pull the fuse out and try to see if the ends of the fuse are loose, check to see if the fuse holder is ok and holding tight. Also check the battery connector for cracks and make sure the 3 pins are clean and in good condition. Is it plugging in nice and tight? If it is a pb710 check the kill switch connections and finally the ignition wire connections.

Try all of these and let me know what happens.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2759

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=90

get a multimeter if you don't have one.

check to see if your controller is getting power by checking the thick red and black power wires going into it.

if lights don't work either it could be the main power plug has failed or somewhere before the controller.

or the ignition switch has failed.

all of those issues i've seen happen before.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2714

My bike has 2 pack battery that sits on top and is plugged into the ither 2 pack battery beneath it.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2707

Re: Gio 500w no lights, no power

Postby DragonChi » Wed Apr 24, 2013 3:27 am

We have nothing, no power coming out of the controller, but full power going into it from the main line. All lines that come out of the controller are dead, and the only live line is the main power supply coming from the battery pack, that is live as far as it goes when it plugs into the connector that ties it into the controller. No lights, no anything, no action on any instruments on the dash. It looks like a fuse, however all fuses are good and the wires for all fuses are also good, those have been checked for tightness or corrosion.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2707

I think you should take a look at your ignition wires. Your ignition could be faulty or a loose ignition wire just try to push the wire in the connector and then try to pul them out to see if a wire is loose. Keep me posted

Mike

Before replacing the controller one easy test is to place the scooter on the center stand so that the rear wheel is free moving. Disconnect all power and connections to the motor. Once disconnected turn the rear wheel by hand if you feel no resistance then move to next step. Reconnect of the three power wires and rotate the motor, and keep connecting one at a time rotating the motor by hand each time. If you notice that once all 3 wires are connected you feel resistance, then you will require a new controller.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2672

Controllers do blow and it's not always a coincidence. Typically we see people coming in with controller issues on several brands. A combination of things can be the root cause. Low tire pressures, high loads (passenger on the scooter), steep inclines, hot weather, additional friction (seized sprocket for example), connectors corroded etc....... A combination or just one of these can cause the controller to heat up and fail.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=154

it sounds to me like your battery cable popped out of the battery box or a bad connection.

the charger will give a small amount of power to the bike but not much.

it's only meant for charging

did you check your breaker?

i've also encountered the power plug on the bike to the battery box fail before. so connection is lost.

everything you've described sounds like no power is getting from the battery to your bike.

one way to check is use a multimeter to check if you are getting voltage to your controller.

you do this by checking the thick red and black wire going into your controller

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2619

I found a defective plug that connects to the battery box....I replaced with a heavier duty plug on the battery and wiring harness and all is well!

Have a great day!

suggestions for "Weather Proofing" your bike?

I used a piece of heavy plastic bag and taped it to the bottom of the display console so that rain runs outside of the dash area. It is like a skirt around the steering column, but on the outside of the plastic. It isn't taped at the bottom, and turns freely with the steering bars. Also put a baggie around the black connector under the seat where the main power to the motor connects from the controller. Other than that, I try not to go out in the rain. Sorry, no pictures yet.

Controller Box Problems

Postby Kosh » Sun Jul 29, 2012 2:19 am

Phase wire connectors got wet melted and blew a capacitor on my controller board.

The only thing not working, on my ebike now is power to my rear wheel/motor, everything else lights up, horns work ect.

When I spin the wheel it spins like it would with the bike powered off.

I fixed the connectors, I replaced the blown capacitor on the board. hook everything up for a test, and the exact same capacitor exploded again.

So I'm wondering if I buy a whole new controller box, do you think it's going to blow up on me again ?

like could something in the motor be causing the cap to blow on the board ?

I don't wanna waste money on a new controller box if it's just going to blow up again.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=228

This may not all be applicable to your own scooter but it should help you to identify some problems you may encounter.

===================================================================================================

Bike works but has small issues

Oh no, it stopped working! Now what?

Don't panic!

Do you still have power on the battery Meter when the bike is turned on?

If yes Go to GOOD FUSE.

If No Go to NO POWER

NO POWER

Unplug the battery. Still no power then use a voltmeter to see if there is power at the battery

plug. If No then open the battery case and ensure all connections are tight to each battery. If all

connections are tight then test each 12V battery for power. If power is coming from each 12V battery

then check the connection at the battery plug directly and check the primary lead cables going to the

plug and connecting each battery together. Check the fuse, if blown go To BLOWN FUSE.

BLOWN FUSE

Unplug the battery and replace fuse. DO NOT RECONNECT the plug!!! We need to see if the

controller is blown. If it is blown and you reconnect the fuse you will blow that fuse and possibly burn

your fingers. To test the controller we need to look at the motor wheel. Push the wheel, does it have

resistance to rotating? If it has resistance the controller is blown. SEE BLOWN CONTROLLER. If

there is no resistance replace the fuse with a 25 to 35 amp fuse and reconnect the battery. If no power

then look at the connections at the controller. See GOOD FUSE.

GOOD FUSE.

A fuse might look good but be broken at the metal cap so replace the fuse with a 25 to 35 amp

fuse and reconnect the battery. If no power then look at the connections at the controller. One of the

small connectors in the plastic casings might be corroded or dirty or bent enough not to connect. Look

at the brake handle sensor on the handlebar as well to see if they sensors have slipped out and thus has

disengaged the motor. Also make sure the brake lever isn't stuck in a slightly pulled position. Still not

working go to BLOWN CONTROLLER.

BLOWN CONTROLLER.

A blown controller will blow the fuse and give resistance on the rear wheel(stuck in braking

regenerative mode). If you are stranded then disconnect the controller cables and the rear wheel will

spin freely and you can peddle to assistance. If you have no tools (Allen wrench). Then push the bike to

the nearest safe place and lock the bike up and walk or call for assistance. If you have a replacement

controller with you replace the controller and fuse and you should be back in operation. As a LAST

resort when you can't leave the bike and have no tools you can try to cut the cable going into the motor

at the axle with a knife or sharp rock etc.. Make sure you leave PLENTY of room for splicing these

cables together again later. Take the bike in for repair.

MOTOR WORKS INTERMITTENTLY.

This is an indication the problem may be inside the motor. Sometimes the wires that connect to

the hall sensors can break from excessive vibration. If not at the sensor then in the wire leading to the

sensor. Look at the cable going into the axle of the motor. Are any cables showing breaks in the plastic

covering? Testing or replacing the halls or connections to them is a complex procedure.Take the bike in for Repair.

BIKE WORKS BUT NO SPEEDOMETER OR BATTERY LEVEL READING.

There may have been a short or loose connection inside the handlebar control assembly. The

unit may need to be replaced if no loose connection can be found. This has happened once in 50 bikes

sold so far – An after marker illegal faster speed controller blew taking it out as well.

THE BIK E IS MAKING A CHUGGING J E R KING SOUND WHEN I BRAKE E.

The regenerative braking circuit of the controller is failing. Immediately

turn the bike off disconnect the battery!! Undo the 2 screws on the

headlight(not the bottom c enter one) and remove headlight. Trace the two

cables coming from the brake handle sensor s and disconnect them.

Replace headlight and plug battery back in. You may operate the bike

without regenerative braking. The brake stop light will no longer function

but at least the controller will not blow rendering it useless . Replace the

controller a s soon as possible. Keep the failing controller as an

emergency spare.

THERE IS A GRINDING SOUND COMING FROM THE FRONT TIRE WHEN I TURN.

Tighten the front tire bolt, it is loose.

I NEED TO TIGHTEN MY BRAKES.

The back brake can be tightened just like any bicycle. Loosen the cable nut, pull the cable

tighter pushing the brake arm forward a little and re-tighten the nut.

The front brake is similar. Hold the bolt and turn the nut to tighten.

THE CHAIN IS FALLING OFF.

If you have struck the pedal on the ground or sidewalk too hard you have probably thrown the

pedal crankshaft out of alignment. Remove to bottom plastic guard and examine the crank shaft. You

may be able to simply tighten the bolts(remove the top plastic guard to do so). If the metal blocks are

bent out of alignment you may be able to bend them back in place. It is best to heat the metal

before/when attempting that. Bending the metal cold may tear the metal. If the metal is torn you will

need to replace the block or have it welded. The pedal blocks are designed to fail upon severe impact

to protect the frame of the bike and the rider if it happens while riding.

CHECK the sprocket teeth!! If any were bent damaged when you put the chain back on the

bent teeth could be throwing the chain off. Fix the teeth or replace that sprocket.

PEDALING DOESN'T WORK.

If you can pedal but the pedaling does not produce any forward motion examine the chain to

make sure it is not thrown off the sprockets. If the chain is firmly on the sprockets then see if you have

lost the bolt that locks the pedal crank shaft to the chain sprocket. This bolt is held in place by two nuts.

If the nuts came loose and fell off the bolt may have fallen out. Replace the bolt. In an emergency for

short term usage a short bent nail may suffice. Be sure that neither end of the nail reaches the chain as

the end of the chain may become lodged between the sprocket and chain derailing the chain or bending

the sprocket teeth.

INNER TUBE NEEDS TO BE CHANGED.

Remove the tire. The front tire is obvious, the back is more complicated. Take the battery out to

reduce bike weight in case you knock the bike over. Tether the bike to something so it does not fall

over. Remove the two nuts on each side of the bike holding the swing arm side covers on and remove

the covers. Loosen the bolts and retainers holding the axle to the frame. Undo the bolt on the brake side

holding the brake to the frame. Remove the tire. Push the tire to the center of the rim and remove the

tire. Pushing the tire to the center of the rim will give the needed slack to remove the tire. If you are

unable to find a bent stem inner tube do not try to bend the tube stem you will ruin the stem. Instead

you can use a drill to change the angle of the stem hole in the rim that the stem goes through. Be sure to

sand the edges of the hole otherwise the sharp edges will give you another flat.

FENDER

I lost the nuts holding the fender on. Replace them and use lock-tight or some electrical tape to

ensure the replacements don't come loose. If you have broken the arms of the fender you should

replace the fender but in the meantime several layers of electrical tape may reduce the noise until then.

THE CHARGER IS DEAD.

If the charger does not light up it may be dead. If you have been plugging it directly into the

wall instead of using a surge suppressor it was blown by a power surge from the wall. Replace the

charger with a 2 amp 48V SLA charger.

http://www.giobikes.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=180

I recently purchased a 500W+ gio. About a week ago it started chugging, was moving fine then slowed down and repeated, a couple days later i noticed i had a flat tire so i took it to the shop and had a new tube installed. On my way home from the shop i noticed i had a loss of power it was only moving 25km/h and it was constantly running at 42km/h before i had this incident. I thought it might be the battery so i went to a friend who has the same model and tried his battery but it made no difference. it has the acceleration and feels like it wants to take off but now only gets to 25km/h then goes no faster. if anyone has any suggestions to wut this may be id really appreciate the thoughts. ty

someone has hooked the governor wire up under your seat bucket. It is a single wire with a single square plastic clip. Wire is either black or green. people always think they found something unplugged and plug them in. In china the wire needs to be attatched for thier speed laws.